From his post at the wheel of the
Grand Lady, a 105-foot paddleboat that cruises the
Grand River daily six months of the year, Bill Boynton surveys a waterway of wonder and recovery. Four decades ago, he says, the river was choked with pollution, increasingly void of wildlife, and quickly surrendering its scenic beauty. Many people still cling tight to this perception of the river turned toilet and hesitate to go near it.
But the situation is, in reality, much different today. Water quality is on the rise as sewage spills and chemical contamination decline, the wildlife is teeming and, more and more, the river corridor is a place to experience the grandeur of
West Michigan’s heritage rather than the folly of its man-made mistakes.
"People see very little in the way of man doing something [on one of our cruises],” says Boynton, captain and owner of the riverboat. “We frequently see bald eagles.”
Guests aboard the Grand Lady, which docks between
Grand Rapids and Grandville, also stand a good chance of spotting Ospreys and kingfishers. Great Blue Heron are seemingly as common as pigeons through some stretches. And, along the way, Boynton tells a remarkably clued-up story of how
Grand Rapids leveraged
Michigan’s longest river to rise from a small fur-trading frontier town into one of the more attractive mid-sized cities in
America today.
In other words, this riverboat is not just some gimmicky tourist trap. It offers a unique way to get off the beaten path and see the
Grand Valley region from a different perspective. Even the die-hard local is bound to pick up something new. And here’s the important fact to take from this particular report: Now is the time to go.
Sure, the Grand Lady paddles the
Grand River from the beginning of May until the end of October. There’s the regularly scheduled dinner cruise, lunch cruise, and the Sunday picnic float. Boynton and his crew also do special charters for weddings, anniversaries, and other group outings. But October brings with it the annual fall color cruises. And that is when the hues of the riverbanks change from a few ordinary shades of green to a dazzling display of deep reds, bright yellows, and brilliant orange. Forget, for once, the trip up to the Northwood. This spectacular show ranks right up there with any route through Manistee or Gaylord and it’s much closer to home.
"The scenery is great,” says Chip VanDam, who also captains the Grand Lady. “Oftentimes people who have grown up around here have not been on the river or understand it. There is a treasure in our backyard that they have never seen before.”
The Grand Lady, which carries 145 passengers, was built in the early 1990s. But it’s modeled after the steamboats that began operating on the
Grand River in the 1830s. The vessel is 105 feet long, 26 feet wide and, with a main cabin and upper deck, 20 feet tall. Twin giant paddlewheels, with a capacity of 100 horsepower per wheel, are the distinguishing feature. They enable the Grand Lady to maneuver in as little as 2.5 feet of water, which means the vessel can float basically the entire length of the Lower Grand from
Grand Rapids to Grand Haven.
Bill Boynton started the business after a career in construction. He grew up on the river, and his grandfather worked on a steamboat in the old days, so he has tried to recreate the route and experience of passengers in the 1800s.
Guests aboard the Grand Lady typically will find live music, food, and a relaxed mood. History buffs will appreciate the story of the riverboat industry that emerged in early
Grand Rapids back in 1837 when the Governor Mason began steaming from GR to the lakeshore. Passengers also get a firsthand look at abandoned saw mills and forgotten towns that, at one time, thrived on passing steamboats and a booming logging industry.
With an enclosed cabin, the vessel is designed to handle
Michigan’s unpredictable weather. Cost ranges from $15 for the fall foliage tour offered only in October to $30 for a dinner cruise. Reservations can be made for groups of more than 40 passengers. Cruises last between two and five hours.
Perhaps what’s most surprising is the feeling of peace and isolation that arises out on the river. The Grand River, which took a beating through the Industrial Era, winds past major factories, several waste water treatments plants, and major university campuses on its winding 260 mile route across Michigan.
But from where the Grand Lady docks near
Johnson Park down to Grand Haven, the river appears surprisingly untouched. It’s basically free of highway overpasses, suffocating subdivisions, and other raucous aspects of city life. The banks are thick with wooded lots and quiet creatures. And Captain Boynton proves an enthusiastic guide.
“It is unique,” Boynton says. “It is different from anything in the area.”
Angela Harris is a freelance journalist who grew up in Livonia, MI. She's contributed to the Northville Record, Novi News, and Journal Newspapers.
She last wrote for Rapid Growth about the dual life of Rick Truer.
Photos:
A blue heron in flight on the Grand River
Bill Boynton at the helm of the Grand Lady
Blue Heron on the banks
The large paddle wheel
Bill Boynton (left) typically allows kids to take a turn steering the 105 foot Grand Lady
All Photographs © Brian Kelly - All Rights reserved